Ohrid is a stunning town full of attractions: an array of churches, a Roman amphitheater, Car Samoil’s Castle, charming whitewashed wooden houses, and a picturesque lake. One church, Sveti Jovan Kaneo, perched on a cliff over the lake, is particularly iconic and feels irresistible for capturing countless photos.

To fully enjoy your visit, it helps to recognize Cyrillic characters, though key signs are often in English, but not always. The lake, with its wave-like ripples, could easily be mistaken for the sea, featuring small beaches that might make you think of the Mediterranean. Its crystal-clear waters beckon you to swim, though they are quite chilly – while locals, including children, seem to dive right in without a second thought. Interestingly, the lake is home to a unique type of trout, the Letnica, living in the Albanian and Macedonian parts of the lake. Catching this trout is prohibited, and it’s sold illegally at high prices in some restaurants. Eating it, whether in Macedonia or elsewhere, contributes to its risk of extinction, whereas the more affordable brown trout is just as tasty.

During our stay, we often dined at Neim, a restaurant frequented by affluent locals. We savored various specialties such as moussaka (a dish with eggplant, potatoes, and minced meat), polneti piperki (stuffed peppers), goulash with beans, kebapci (similar to Sarajevo’s cevapcici), and opska salad, which is a mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, and cheese. One evening, we tried a red wine called Tga za Jug, which means ‘Nostalgia of the South’ – it was delightful and strong. Skopsko pivo beer was also a popular choice, available everywhere. Despite its popularity, the restaurant offered very reasonable prices and maintained an authentic Macedonian vibe, even in a tourist-heavy town.

Our mornings in Ohrid often started with breakfast from local bakeries known as Pekara, where we enjoyed delicious burek and savory pastry rolls filled with sausage or cheese. Macedonians also have a tradition of drinking Bitolska yogurt, which is rich and flavorful. It’s said to be beneficial for digestive health, with locals consuming at least half a liter every morning.

One evening, we treated ourselves to lake fish at one of the restaurants near the town square, though it was quite pricey. Less visible eateries might offer better deals. As a natural sciences enthusiast, I was excited to visit Struga, a town north of Ohrid, known for its natural history museum. Unfortunately, Struga didn’t offer much else for tourists, and finding the museum was challenging. After much searching, a local elder helped us locate it, refusing any payment for his assistance. The museum, housed in a run-down building on a dirt road, was fascinating, showcasing a variety of stuffed animals, including wolves, bears, and eagles. We took taxis for our trips to and from the museum, though public transportation options do exist in Ohrid and Struga – we just didn’t come across them.

Eventually, our time in Ohrid came to an end. We bid farewell to our hosts and embarked on the journey back home. The customs officers asked for the registration card we had previously handed to our landlord. Despite the lengthy trip, everything went smoothly – a taxi to Pogradec, a shared van to Elbasan, another taxi to Durres, and then we boarded a ship to Bari. On arrival in Bari, we had an unpleasant encounter with a taxi driver who overcharged us for a ride from the port to the train station, making us realize we were back home.

By Elsi H